The Long Table says it took thousands of hours of work to turn derelict site into a community space, but landlord has now sold it

A Gloucestershire restaurant with a radical business model, in that it feeds all comers regardless of their ability to pay, is losing its premises after the owner sold the property.

The community around The Long Table, featured in the Guardian earlier this month , has been left reeling after it was ordered to move out of the mill it occupies in Stroud – even as it sought to engage with the landlord to buy the building.

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One chef receives three stars at first attempt in 115th edition of the French foodies’ bible

A record 52 restaurants in France – including 23 that only opened in the past year – have been awarded one or more Michelin stars for the first time, which the French foodies’ bible said reflected the “cultural dynamism” of a new generation of innovative young chefs.

“This year’s is a generous vintage, and also true to our values,” said Gwendal Poullennec, the director of the Michelin Guide , at the launch of its 115th edition on Monday. Well over half of the new laureates were under the age of 40, he said.

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The Sportsman, Melton’s and Prashad have thrived for two decades or longer. We meet the teams behind these evergreen favourites

Opened in 1999

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The chef on his childhood on a farm, why his restaurant’s oysters are the best, and how to do St Patrick’s Day properly

You must – must! – stay inquisitive. It is probably the most important thing: stay inquisitive, like people, and keep knowledge flowing through your ears and your eyes. Listen, read and taste. Keep all that going and And don’t become old, fight ageing.

I was brought up in a farmhouse in the Irish countryside where there were rabbits, pheasants, butter-making, it was all going on. There was always a wild salmon coming and going into our house. But nobody intellectualised food: it was just food for the table. The smell of bread is the overriding memory: that’s why we make bread for all our restaurants. There’s something about the smell of freshly baked bread in a kitchen: it’s magic.

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Vietnamese-inspired food served with warmth and enthusiasm

Omni Café , 12 Front Street, Monkseaton, Whitley Bay NE25 8DF (0191 251 2819). Breakfast dishes £5-£15, lunch and dinner dishes £9-£18, desserts £3.95-£8, wines from £25

Some dish titles do all their own marketing. At Omni, a Vietnamese-inspired café tucked into the end of a shopping parade just outside Whitley Bay, they offer a “12-hour beef shin and peanut curry”. It’s a luscious kind of poetry; a line which deserves to be unpacked word by word. The presence of shin is promising. The more a muscle works, the more flavour it offers. Shins do stuff. But it takes care and lengthy cooking to get the best out of one. Those 12 hours should do it. Being robust, shin appreciates big flavours, so cooking it down in a rugged curry paste makes sense. The addition of peanuts promises serious depth, but also something hinged in that enveloping place between sweet and savoury.

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Classy, classic and to the point: Camille offers provincial French cooking par excellence served from a 1950s-style hatch

Camille , on the edge of Borough Market in London, is one of a flurry of restaurants with great pedigrees to have recently opened close to this hallowed ground for foodies. Here, I’m using the term “foodie” to denote anyone who gets terrifically jolly at the mere thought of heirloom carrots, Swedish coastal honey and robatayaki skewered whelks for brunch. Not to mention the 500 people making social media content by throwing a peace sign next to the chocolate-coated strawberry stall and the other 10,000 or so, influenced by that content, now meeting seven friends outside Padella at noon on a Saturday.

If you think that sounds like utterly unenjoyable chaos, you could very well be right. My advice for visiting Camille, which is on the periphery of this bunfight, is to plan your route in advance, write the address on your arm in case the 5G drops out the moment you leave London Bridge station, and walk swiftly and purposefully to Camille and order a stiff drink immediately. Also, rest assured that, once you’re safely through the door, the place is a little slice of calm with not one influencer draped over their Humble Crumble creme brulee . Rather, it’s a gratifyingly traditional, classy dining room that could be from the 1950s, with a tiny bar, counter seating and a little service hatch at the back sending out a short, meaningful menu influenced by provincial French dining.

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Uber increases its fares when there’s high demand, as do airlines. Now, eateries are getting in on the act

Name: Surge pricing.

Age: In one way or another, it’s been going on since supply first met demand.

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This isn’t a normal café in a garden centre, thank heavens – it’s halfway to Paradise

Paradise Food , Daleside Nurseries, Ripon Road, Killinghall, Harrogate HG3 2AY (01423 877109). Starters £10-£18; mains £18-£28; desserts £4-£10; wines from £25.50

Paradise is a restaurant in a shed at the bottom of a garden, but oh what a shed, and oh what a garden. The shed is a slatboard building over sturdy grey-painted girders. Inside is a broad, white-walled space, big on Yorkshire flagstones, shiny-leafed rubber plants and garden tables of the sort advertised in Sunday colour supplements, much like the one in which this column appears. The soft, grey-upholstered chairs are wide and engineered for those of us with more senior bottoms which insist upon padding. There is light, and warmth and cake. We’ll come back to the cake. The garden is likewise not some diminutive lawn, with a carefully trimmed herbaceous border. It is Daleside, a garden centre on the edge of Harrogate, where nothing bad can ever happen. It is not the kind of garden centre just for a couple of things for the patio and a rusting iron cutout of a hare. You could replant a forest from the stock here. Like the shed, it is big-boned and significant.

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Londoners leaving the city have taken their food with them, keeping the pie and mash scene alive

Moulsham Street in Chelmsford is a typical English high street, with barbers, salons, pubs and no shortage of culinary options: a Chinese, Indian, chippy and Italian, kebab shops and greasy spoons. But there’s one spot you wouldn’t find in most of the country – the pie and mash shop.

F Cooke has all the trappings of a traditional pie and mash shop: white -tiled walls, pictures of celebrities, marble tables and wooden benches. It opened in 2020, becoming the first in the city, according to director Jordan Lassman. There are now two. Robins, which has six shops across east London and Essex, soon joined it in 2021. They are part of a burgeoning scene in Essex, which according to Lassman, is “the new home of pie and mash”.

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