Tahini with roast aubergine, the classic lentils with rice and caramelised onions , and a creamy mashed courgette salad

When I close my eyes and try to think of a dish that says home, mujadara is usually the one that comes to mind. Mind you, the same probably goes for most Palestinians: this humble yet hugely satisfying meal was easily the most requested recipe on my radio show, Ramblings of a Chef , which I started during the pandemic. Mafghoussa , meanwhile, is a refreshing side for grilled meats or to serve by itself with bread as a light meal – the word means “squashed” in Arabic, and the name of the dish came about because the vegetables involved are mashed during or after cooking and served as a cold salad.

Char it, grill it, even soupify it – our panel of cooks lets us in on secret ways to enjoy lettuce

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How to use up a whole head of lettuce before it turns – no salad, please
We’re talking about how to apply heat here, because raw lettuce is all about salad (unless you’re using the leaves to cradle mince or mushrooms, which is also an excellent shout). Braising is as good a place to start as any, says Farokh Talati , head chef at St John Bread and Wine in London. Cut the lettuce in half through the root and season, and get a cast-iron pan on the heat. “If I was doing this at the restaurant,” Talati says, “I’d use beef dripping, but you could fry bacon in vegetable oil instead, then lift it out and use the fat left in the pan; or, for vegetarians, just use olive oil.” Once the fat is smoking hot, pop in the lettuce cut side down, cook until well charred – “We’re talking dark ” – then take out of the pan. Talati would then fry chestnut mushrooms or poached sweetbreads and smoked bacon, before returning the lettuce to the pan with a little chicken or porcini stock, and perhaps some thyme and crushed garlic. Cover, simmer until you have “a lovely rich sauce”, and finish with a splash of balsamic or sherry vinegar.

For a thrill from the grill, Olly Oakley, head chef at the Harcourt Arms in Oxfordshire, barbecues lettuce whole. “It ends up with a nice, smoky, warm middle,” he says, making it ideal for serving with a caesar-type dressing or anchovy butter, plus a smattering of pangrattato to “hearten things up”. Alternatively, Talati adds, rub seasoned lettuce wedges with extra-virgin olive oil and harissa. “Really work them into the leaves, then get it on the barbecue and cook, turning every three minutes, until wilted.” Transfer to a tray and “rest whatever else you’re grilling, be that sausages, pork chops or steak, on top of the lettuce, so all the resting juices drip on to it”.

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Creamy Spanish lentils are little marvels with wild garlic (or spinach), crumbly goat’s cheese, honey and a dash of sherry vinegar

When I was a child, Mum wouldn’t let me refuse lentils. If I left them, they’d be breakfast the next day – “They’re good for you!” – and I soon learned that being picky wasn’t wise in our house. Small, brown pardina lentils have thin skins, a creamy texture and earthy, herbal, peppery notes; they also hold their shape well, making them perfect for salads. It’s no surprise, then, that the finest examples from Tierra de Campos, the vast, semi-arid plains north of Valladolid, even have a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI).

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Trini-style soft pillows of fried bread sandwiching spiced chickpeas and served with a punchy cucumber chutney

Doubles are a delicious and popular Caribbean street food. They’re made up of two soft, puffy fried breads (or baras ), hence the name doubles, stuffed with a filling of tasty chickpeas and eaten with chutney (cucumber, in today’s case). Unless you’ve tried them, however, it’s hard to do them justice – it’s a bit like telling someone who has never heard of Elton John that he’s a great pop star. So may I make a suggestion? Please stop by one of the UK’s many roti shops and order one (some?), then pop back here at a later date to make these.

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The answer, surprisingly, is not just to use more garlic (but you can go to town with the basil)

• Ask Ottolenghi: send in your kitchen questions

How can we get a pleasingly strong garlic taste in our tomato sauce for pasta? Is the secret the amount of garlic , or how you cut it , or the length of cooking? Our sauces tend to be bland rather than zingy . The same goes for basil, in the same simple sauce – how to highlight its flavour?
Nancy, New York
I trust that’s pleasingly strong as opposed to harshly strong? If so, slow-roasting would be my initial go-to. Don’t turn on the oven just for this, though, but next time you have it on, cut the very top off a head of garlic, just to expose the cloves, drizzle over a little olive oil, then wrap in tin foil and pop it in the bottom of the oven for about 45 minutes. Remove and, once cool enough to handle, squeeze out the now amazingly soft and sweet garlic flesh, and stir it into your tomato sauce. The chains of fructose in the garlic will have broken down during roasting and given rise to something called glutamic acid, which brings with it that bold umami taste and depth we all look for in a sauce. In short, you’ll have created the most mellow but bold, sweet and pleasingly strong burst of garlicky flavour.

If you’ve not had time to roast it, it’s also fine to start with raw garlic. The more you mince it, the more the flavour compounds are released and the stronger the flavour will be, so crush or finely mince it, rather than slice it, if you want that garlic flavour really to penetrate the sauce.

A grilled salad of onions and shallots with boiled eggs and tarragon yoghurt, and a hearty chive and challah bread pudding

It’s the oldest trick in the book: get some onions and garlic on the stove, cook them until they’re smelling lovely, and everyone will assume that dinner is just around the corner. One way to fast-track that process is to make those alliums the stars of the show, rather than just a background note. From shallots to spring onions and chives to calçots, onions and garlic are just two players in the vast and varied allium family. Unlike other vegetables, alliums accumulate energy stores in chains of fructose sugars, rather than starch, and cooking transforms them from harsh to super-soft and sweet. So, instead of making everyone think of supper, think of onions themselves as supper!

Beetroot leaves are nutritious, thrifty and work brilliantly mixed into a hash with other leftover vegetables. Just top with a fried egg and away you go …

Hash is a clever way to use up the day before’s leftovers, because almost any combination of chopped meat and vegetables, all fried together and topped with a fried egg, is scrumptious. I’ve focused today’s recipe around a whole beetroot, including its leaves, which are even more nutritious than the root itself, full of vitamins A, B6, C and K, and rich in iron, magnesium and potassium.

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Zany caper follows Jo Hartley as a big-veg enthusiast defending her patch from elaborate ill-doings

Chaos reigns in this strange, funny and amiably anarchic mockumentary about dirty tricks in the cutthroat world of competitive marrow-growing, written and co-directed by film-maker Brook Driver. Maybe the script could have gone through another couple of drafts, but that might have removed some of the flavour. As it is, it feels like Thomas Pynchon had emailed Ricky Gervais an idea he’d had for a British comedy, and the result certainly has some laughs.

Jo Hartley (a stalwart of Shane Meadows’s movies Dead Man’s Shoes and This Is England) is Caroline, a marrow-grower and a divorcee who pretends her ex-husband is dead and is now in a kind of NSA relationship with her needy neighbour Willy (Celyn Jones); they are both mates with conspiracy theorist and fanatically competitive prize-veg enthusiast Paul (Richard Lumsden). When Caroline’s marrow is disqualified one year for having a hairline crack and then her other marrow (called Ricky Hatton because it’s such a fighter) is stolen from her garden greenhouse by masked raiders, Caroline sets out on a desperately dangerous quest to find what on earth is happening. But this involves hiring a supremely louche pair of private detectives: Louise (Aisling Bea) and Lawrence (Ray Fearon) a married couple who also run swinging parties that Caroline has attended.

When you’re hankering after something starchy and satisfying, this soupy spring rice delight will definitely please the tastebuds

I don’t know whether I prefer saying risi e bisi or eating this Venetian springtime speciality, which is traditionally made to celebrate the feast of St Mark, the city’s patron saint, on 25 April. That said, this deliciously soupy, starchy dish ticks a lot of boxes for me at this time of year, not least because even I can amuse myself in a terrible Italian accent for only so long.

Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4